Architecture grad wins award for improving the world with colour

Iris Redinger is on a mission to reduce the environmental impact of the fashion industry by creating an all-natural dyeing solution, using microorganisms to “grow” colour. 

The textile industry accounts for about 20 per cent of industrial wastewater pollution, worldwide.

Redinger’s breakthrough initiative produces all-natural dyes by removing the environmental hazards traditionally associated with the textile industry.

Her creation has earned her a prestigious award from Mitacs, a national not-for-profit innovation organization that fosters growth by solving business challenges with research solutions from academic institutions.  

In recognition of her efforts to advance the first-of-its-kind bio-colour platform through her start-up company, Waterloo-based Material Futures, Redinger, a Mitacs intern, earned her bachelor of architecture at the University of Waterloo’s Cambridge campus last year.

She was presented with the Mitacs Environmental Entrepreneur Award on June 2 at a ceremony in Montreal. 

“I’ve always had a passion for the fashion industry,” said Redinger, originally from Toronto, who learned to sew at a young age.

As a co-op student during her first year studying architecture at the University of Waterloo Cambridge campus, Redinger had the opportunity to work with Dutch fashion designer Iris van Herpen on the renowned Dome Dress, shown at Paris Fashion Week in 2017.

“The architectural program in Cambridge enabled me to start to work on this technology. The architectural professors were extremely supportive of interdisciplinary research. Even though this wasn’t specifically about architecture, they supported me and that was extremely meaningful to me,” Redinger said.

“To develop line of dresses for Paris Fashion week, that was my first exposure to the fashion world, and that was all possible through the architectural program.”

The 23-year-old is one of five winners of the Mitacs Entrepreneur Award being recognized for their efforts to turn their research into innovative businesses that impact the lives of Canadians. 

“Dyeing clothing is one of the biggest environmental challenges in the fashion industry,” Redinger said. “Historically, we used plants to colour textiles, but now we use chemical processes derived from harmful petroleum products. With recent developments in synthetic biology, now is the right time to return to nature as a source for colour.” 

Redinger founded Material Futures in 2018, hiring researchers to help develop her method, which is patent pending. After identifying microorganisms that naturally produce colour, she applies genetic engineering techniques to make it their primary function. The end product is a fully biodegradable colourant that can be easily substituted with existing manufacturing processes. 

“Many countries that dye textiles don’t do a good job of treating their wastewater, which is problematic because people often drink, bathe, and swim in this water,” Redinger said. “One solution is to develop dyestuffs that don’t require water to be used in the colouring process, but that approach will require costly new equipment, new factories and new infrastructure.”  

Redinger said that by applying green chemistry and natural elements, this creates a more environmentally conscious and sustainable fashion world.

The focus moving forward, is to grow her solution. The technology has gone through performance and feasibility testing to ensure the naturally dyed textiles stand up to repeated washing without fading and meet other thresholds for industry-grade fabrics.  

She is also investigating the natural dye’s application to cosmetics, food colourants, plastics, and other industries. 

“Hopefully next year, the goal is to launch some commercial products,” Redinger said.

“It’s all about the environmental impacts with this technology. It makes sense for people, and it makes sense for the planet.”

For information about Mitacs and its programs, visit mitacs.ca/newsroom.