Here we are, the May 2-4 long weekend and the unofficial start of summer.
In a normal year, we'd be heading off to the cottage, packing up for a provincial park, or driving to nearby beaches with coolers in tow. Pressure is reaching critical mass for a return to normal.
Some might say the pent-up demand is like a powder keg. Or a beer keg that's ready to blow.
When it does, Farm League Brewing will be ready to tap into the city's thirst for craft beer.
Farm League's retail shop is opening in the former site of Grand River Brewing next month with high hopes that a return to normal will bring the patio online by July.
There are already big expectations for Cambridge's newest brewery.
Co-owner and general manager Collin McKinnon laughs as he recalls hearing a sudden shout from a passing vehicle earlier this month when he was cutting the lawn at the Ainslie Street business. "Don't screw it up," the man yelled.
McKinnon is confident they'll meet those expectations.
When Farm League opens, it will become the city's ninth brewery. Even with the departure of Grand River Brewing and North Works Brewing Company last year, Cambridge hasn't missed a beat when it comes to maintaining its brewing prominence.
A decade ago, late-night talk show host David Letterman joked about Cambridge having the most coffee shops per capita than anywhere else in North America. Today the claim might be about having the most breweries. As a point of comparison, the city of Guelph, with roughly the same population, has four micro breweries, one medium-sized brewer and one big player with Sleeman.
But McKinnon doesn't think Cambridge has reached its saturation point yet. Far from it.
Craft beer drinkers don’t tend to stick to one brand, he says. They’re always willing to try new things.
He likens it to the restaurant industry; as long as what you’re producing is unique, and the quality is there, customers will find you, he says.
Eventually, he'd like to see cooperation among the tight-knit community of local brewers with a goal to make Cambridge one of the top craft beer destinations in Ontario, if it isn't already.
The Rockwood native talks with animated excitement about the brewery while on a tour of the former Galt Knife Co. building on Ainslie Street where Grand River Brewing started a decade ago before pulling up stakes last year.
McKinnon says when he and the other owners of Farm League learned it was up for sale, they couldn't resist the appeal of the 1890s factory. The original brickwork and weathered windows only hint at its long and storied history.
The idea for Farm League bubbled up in conversation among friends while they were sitting around at the start of the pandemic wondering about next moves. For McKinnon, whose full-time gig before COVID-19 was working in the live music industry, the idea to start a brewery was an immediate yes.
"It just seemed like too much fun," he says.
At 28, McKinnon is the oldest of the five partners invested in the business, including brewmaster Mike Mayo who hails from Fixed Gear Brewing in Guelph.
“We’re going into it with a bit of a younger mindset,” he says.
The new taproom, which will come online once the patio is up and running, is getting a new coat of paint, a new tap system, refinished floors, and an updated kitchen but will retain the old layout for now. Farm League is partnering with a local pizza joint to feed customers to its patio this summer.
McKinnon's background in event planning means weddings and large parties will be on the agenda down the road.
The tanks came from Abe Erb’s Kitchener location, which ceased brewing operations last year. They also have a full canning and bottling line to meet requirements put in place because of COVID-19.
Farm League’s brewing capacity will allow a constant rotation of small-batch IPAs and limited releases along with a focus on a mainstay lager that aims for “sessionability.”
In other words, it's the type of beer Mayo expects will be their best seller; an accessible, easy-drinker that can be enjoyed in long sessions on the backyard patio with friends.
“At the end of the day, you just want to go home and drink something refreshing,” he says.
“Our slogan is ‘best paired with good times,’” adds McKinnon.
The other breweries in town have welcomed Farm League with open arms, and he hopes they can collaborate somehow to boost awareness of what the city has to offer.
Across the river, that sentiment is shared by Foundry Brewing brewmaster Geoff Wiseman, who launched Foundry and Hardwater Brewing Co. in the Gaslight District last year.The 35-year-old, whose passion for brewing developed in his fourth year of the food science program at the University of Guelph, began his mentorship at Labbatt and Mill Street before he worked at Grand River Brewing.
That's where Wiseman ran into Scott Higgins of HIP Developments just as plans for the Gaslight District were taking off.
The rest is history.
To say he's excited to lead the brewing operations that will be front and centre for the entire Gaslight District project, including the 2,000 capacity Tapestry Hall event space, is an understatement.
The launch of the Foundry Tavern restaurant will follow next May in conjunction with the opening of the first tower in HIP Development’s Gaslight District condos. The condo expansion will continue with the construction of the second tower and courtyard arts and music hub next summer. The location will include an upscale grocery store among other retailers.
In the meantime, Wiseman has his fingers crossed he'll be able to open a patio on June 10 to complement the retail operation, which has been open throughout lockdown.
The pandemic has admittedly taken a toll in terms of sales. But as federal and provincial support helped Foundry weather the lockdowns, the advantage of time has created an opportunity for experimentation.
“The science of the beer is my passion,” he says. That focus is evident in his signature Hefeweizen where by stressing the yeast, Wiseman created subtle banana notes that set it apart. Beautiful Aurelia, named after his daughter, went on to win gold at the Canadian Brewing Awards last year.
Tha Calgary native remembers how access to craft beer exploded with the privatization of liquor sales in Alberta back in the '90s. Today he's seeing the same thing in Ontario and expects gradual deregulation of the industry will lead to the launch of even more craft breweries locally.
The other factor driving the city’s growing craft beer market is walkability, he says. It's especially true in Galt where the compact downtown and river trail system lends itself to getting around on foot or by bike; an aspect that works well for brewery and bar owners who want to ensure their customers drink responsibly and get home safely.
Wiseman says he’s optimistic about what this summer will bring and eventually wants to connect with other local brewers to help bill Cambridge as a destination for craft beer, perhaps organizing a beer bus similar to what Guelph brewers did in 2019.
“We’re ready to go. We just need to get the word out that we have some of the best beer around,” he says.
CAMBRIDGE BREWERY GUIDE
The pandemic led to some big changes to the local brewing scene, but established breweries remain.
Grand River Brewing was purchased by Magnotta Winery and closed its Galt operations last year, as did Hespeler's North Works Brewing Company.
Fans of Grand River Brewing can still find the former Cambridge brewer's beers at some LCBO stores or through Magnotta in Woodbridge, Ont. North Works has hinted at a relocation to cottage country but have yet to re-emerge after departing its Stafford Court location in Hespeler last November.
Below the map is a list of other Cambridge breweries hoping to tap into local demand this summer.
Wave Maker Craft Brewery and Taproom - 639 Laurel St, Cambridge
Brewmaster Scott Pautler, who opened Wave Maker in 2018 to high praise from local imbibers, is offering a varied selection of IPAs, sours, and stouts from their bottle shop. Their motto, “beer with soul” tries to push the boundaries with new flavours, and is ready to make waves again this season with its new Summa Summer Pale Ale. The Preston brewery kept its bottle shop open for takeout during the lockdown and food trucks have been making weekend visits to add to the appeal. Music Bingo is expected to return to the patio this summer, pandemic permitting.
Reverence Barrel Works – 1144 Industrial Road, Unit 3, Cambridge
Brewmasters Brett Hunter and Matt Duimering began offering their wine-barrel-aged beers in May 2020 and were planning to open a taproom and patio this month to mark their first year in operation. As the finishing touches on the patio go in and the party plans remain paused until restrictions are relaxed, local customers can get their hands on their experimental and traditional brews through curbside pickup. The brewmasters are known for their reverence for old-world brewing styles while putting their own twist on modern craft beer.
Jackass Brewing - 100 Sheldon Dr, Cambridge
Keith and Wayne Saunders run one of the city’s oldest craft breweries and offer a selection of IPAs and sour ales for curbside pickup until their bar and taproom reopens.
Barncat Artisan Ales - 1600 Industrial Rd., Unit B5, Cambridge
Barncat recently marked its fifth anniversary with a barrel-aged Saison and offers curbside pickup at its bottle shop while their taproom remains closed. Growler refills are on pause until restrictions are lifted, but a wide selection of pilsner, sours, ales and IPAs are available from the fridge with availability changing weekly.
Rhythm and Brews Brewing Company - 1000 Bishop St. N. Unit 10, Cambridge
This brewery, bar and live music venue has been welcoming crowds since 2018. Started by four friends with a passion for live music and beer, they’re pushing through the pandemic by offering a variety of small-batch brews and regular favourites for curbside pickup from their fully stocked retail fridge. A smokehouse pop-up in April offered customers burgers, smoked wings, sausage, and pork, a charcuterie pairing sold out in May and more surprises are planned. A return to normal this fall will hopefully bring local performers back to the stage and Rhythm and Brews will begin offering wedding packages with room for 145 inside. Check out the Facebook page for updates.
Sparrow Brewing and Roasting Company, 4-54 Guelph Avenue, Cambridge
Cambridge’s smallest brewery is also a coffee roastery on Guelph Avenue in Hespeler. The microbrewery is sold out of its beer for now but promises its small-batch lagers and IPAs will make a return in time for summer.
Four Fathers Brewing, 125 Guelph Avenue, Cambridge
One of the city’s most prominent brands started just outside of Guelph in 2009 as four local hockey dads put their passion for beer to the test by launching a craft brewery. Since then, they’ve scaled the business and moved to Hespeler, opening their taproom and restaurant in 2018. The patio is ready to go when provincial restrictions ease. Until then, the bottle shop and restaurant are open daily for curbside pickup and online takeout orders.
